Just checking that this gets sent correctly by SendinBlue.
Just for completeness, here’s a pumpkin….
Just checking that this gets sent correctly by SendinBlue.
Just for completeness, here’s a pumpkin….
Over the past years we have seen several long dry periods and in the spring when water is needed for newly planted seeds etc. we have often had to resort to carrying water long distances from the troughs dotted around the site.
This water has, using a lot of energy, been treated to make it safe to drink, treatment that is not at all necessary for our flowers and veggies! We should do all we can to reduce the amount of this water we use.
Perhaps the thing that makes most difference is mulching and increasing the amount of organic matter in our soil so that it can hold more water. Personally I use a lot of grass clippings and comfrey for this, particularly on my potatoes. I also use wood chip, initially on paths and then when it rots down a bit I transfer this to my beds before replacing it.
Those of you reading this who have plots in the fenced area and others who have been to the trading hut recently will see that we have also added some extra water storage next to the hut. A 6,000 Litre superbutt! This was installed earlier this year and is now over 1/3 full. It will shortly be connected up to a trough for those with plots in the area to collect water from it. If you have a shed on your plot do think about getting water butt. Also essential if we get very dry weather for blueberries as the hard water in this area contains chalk and they like an acid soil.
Finally, many thanks to those who helped on the day and Ceri for taking the pictures.
This post should get emailed automatically to subscribers by Sendinblue. We only have a few test subscribers ATM. You might also receive this as an admin of the website.
NB previously I was under the misapprehension that registered users on our website would receive blog posts by email. That’s wrong. People must subscribe to the blog explicitly, somehow. I have now added a mechanism for that, using SendinBlue as our mail sender. This is a free service (for up to 300 emails/day).
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When this is all working nicely I will invite currently registered users to subscribe to the blog.
We still need a picture…
As some may know, last year, during an inspection because this disease of bees had been found in the area, one colony was found to have this disease and had to be destroyed. A subsequent inspection provided the all clear but it looks like we will be subject to annual inspections for the foreseeable future as the strain of the disease previously limited to North Cambridge now seems to be endemic in the South of the area.
The good news is that this year’s inspection was clear though there have been warnings of the disease in the area again.
The other good news on the disease front is that the requirement for poultry to be kept under cover because of Avian flu was lifted on the first of April. This has never affected poultry kept on our site but there is a danger of spread, particularly from large intensive farms.
Comparing New Horizon and SylvaGrow
The society sold New Horizon general purpose compost at the Trading Hut for 20 years. Back in 2000 it was almost the only peat-free compost available. In 2020 we started stocking another brand, SylvaGrow, instead of New Horizon, so I wanted to compare these peat-free composts.
Trialled here are New Horizon All Vegetable compost and Sylvagrow Multi-Purpose compost.
Pictured below are grafted tomato seedlings received by post and planted into identical pots on 14th April, and placed on a south-facing window sill.
The four plants on the left are in New Horizon, those on the right are in Sylvagrow. I have swapped the two trays over every few days to ensure that each batch gets a similar amount of light. I have watered so as to keep the compost moist in each pot. After 20 days the SylvaGrow batch shows considerably stronger growth: the plants are double the height, they have more leaves, and their stem diameter is about 50% greater than the New Horizon batch.
It’s very clear: my tomato seedlings have performed much better so far in SylvaGrow than in New Horizon.
The plants here are the Crimson Collection from Chase Organics, each batch of 4 plants comprising 1 each of Crimson Crush, Crimson Blush etc. I bought two batches for £13.99 so these grafted plants cost £1.75 each.
I have potted up some other (ungrafted) tomato varieties in the same way: half each in the two brands of compost. They are all younger and smaller than the Crimson Collection at the moment, but I will have more examples to compare as they grow.
The two compost products seem to have similar ingredients but it is not entirely clear, because the info on the New Horizon sack uses marketing terms whereas SylvaGrow simply states what its ingredients are.
The particle size is larger in New Horizon than in SylvaGrow. The New Horizon compost does not hold water as well as SylvaGrow. Perhaps this is the reason for the performance difference: it dries out quicker, and when it is dry, water drains straight through.
New Horizon also do a product specifically for tomatoes which I have not tried yet.
A word about peat and composts: please don’t buy any product containing peat.
Warning: Most composts not labelled “peat free” will contain peat.
Members can buy peat-free compost on site at the Trading Hut.
The potential addition of lighting on various local paths is being discussed in Trumpington Residents Association.
What do you think of lighting the path/cycleway which runs from Shelford Road to the busway? It would be good to form a collective view.
Would lighting be appropriate along this whole route?
If not, where specifically would lighting be appropriate? Which parts should not be lit? Why?
What type of lighting would be appropriate at these locations?
Should any lighting operate throughout the hours of darkness? If not, when should lights be on?
View the route at https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1RxDx_3rCqv0qwCtsN5Ch7Uh1goInv-pR&usp=sharing . Edit the map if you want and comment below
In the foreground, old secondary double glazing is laid on a bed to warm the soil ready for a speculative sowing of salads.
Behind that is a protected early sowing of Crimson-Flowered Broad Beans. Hard frosts were forecast so I used whatever I had to hand to add some protection. A single layer of new fleece would probably be as effective.
I’ve put homemade compost on some of the beds. That’s why they differ in colour.
After a warmer & wetter weather forecast, I removed the protection from the broad beans. The old canes laid diagonally tell me that seed has been sown. Thus I will not absent-mindedly hoe the bed and destroy the crop just as it germinates.
I also had a look under the warming glass. I found that some weeds have germinated, which indicates that the soil is warm enough to make small early sowings of radish and lettuce. Even better, there are some seedlings that might be self-set lettuce, so I will leave them and sow fresh seed in the gaps.
This bed is marked with two parallel lines in preparation for sowing onion sets. I use nylon builder’s line stretched between strong metal stakes to get straight rows.
FAQ: Why sow in boring straight lines? You could grow in pretty circles instead!
A: I plan to use a hoe to control the inevitable weeds, and hoeing is easiest along a straight line. If weeds grow unchecked the crop will get smothered and fail. This is true of almost every annual vegetable, and especially of onions.
Sow your veg seeds in a mandala pattern or inspirational spiral if you want — you can hand-weed this effectively on a small scale. But whatever scale you grow at, you should have a realistic plan for weed control!
The fine mesh was added last week to protect my leeks from Allium Leaf Miner. This fly can be on the wing mating and seeking laying sites throughout March & April. The hungry larvae cause serious damage to onions & leeks. There is a second brood in autumn so crops also need protection then. At other times you want to leave the mesh off to allow more light in, and easier access for weeding and harvesting.
In the foreground are my last parsnips which will need digging up in the next couple of weeks. You can see that they are already growing new leaves. This is the start of the flowering process when the roots lose food value. Get them out and eat them!
That’s our plan. It may be cold and wet as I type this on a February afternoon, but recall the dry spring/early summer 2020 during lockdown, the hot & dry spells in 2019 when Cambridge broke the UK temperature record, and the very long hot & dry 2018 season. Rainwater butts were empty and we had to wait for the dip tanks to re-fill. We should aim for better water provision on site, and we should make the fullest possible use of rainwater to reduce dependency on the expensive mains supply.
Ideally, we want every plot to have water nearby, informed by our interactive map.
Our strategy has three parts:
Executive summary: unpack them ASAP.
More details in Dave’s video…
CORONAVIRUS UPDATE: We did one lovely GYO session on March 15th 2020, respecting social distancing, but due to the lockdown I then suspended sessions. For what it’s worth, in general I think that allotments are relatively safe for a small group respecting distancing, wearing masks and aware of shared surfaces such as tool handles. But regulations disallow gatherings so we cannot resume.
For 9 years I ran ‘Grow Your Own’ sessions on my plot. I really hope we can resume for another season later in 2021.
The sessions are ideal for novices but equally if you want to come and tell us what to do, that’s great too. Get stuck in as we sow, nurture, harvest and eat. And frankly I want your practical help because illness is slowing him down these days.
Please read this information page and let me know if you want to come.
Please bring bags to take produce home.